Recent literature identifies disadvantaged neighborhoods lacking access to healthy food as “food deserts” where limited food choices may affect health and socioeconomic outcomes. Researchers have applied varying definitions of food deserts, however, making generalizations problematic. We use GIS methods to examine the congruence and coverage of different definitions for Portland, Oregon. Each identifies somewhat different neighborhoods as food deserts, with none accounting for the majority of socioeconomically vulnerable populations living with low food access. To supplement, we introduce the concept of the food hinterland—home to a significant share of the vulnerable population living with low food access.